Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in Tokyo

Come to the Japanese Bespoke Symposium – in Tokyo published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

J. Crew Shoe Sale, a $1000 tux for $280, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

J. Crew: 40% – 50% off Select Shoes w/ STEPITUP

• Oar Stripe Cap Toe Oxfords – $178.80 ($298) 
• New Balance for J.Crew 791 Leather Sneakers – $51 ($85)  
• Unisex 1990 MacAlister Boot in Suede – $88.80 ($148)
• Vans for J.Crew Canvas Authentic Sneakers – $36 ($60) 

One of the better, more tempting codes/promos from J. Crew in recent memory. Those cap toe oxfords made our best under $200 dress shoes list this year. They’re surprisingly nice (simple, but nice) in person, considering you nab them at a discount. And now you can. In person shot above is the pair in “maple.”

Bonobos: New Additions to Sale + Extra 30% off w/ SURPRISE

• Jetsetter Stretch Wool Blazer in Francisco Dark Navy Plaid – $252 ($450) 
• Capstone Italian Wool Tuxedo Jacket & Matching Pant – $280 FINAL ($1000)
• Captstone Italian Blazer in Acapulco Green Stripe – $280 ($500) 
• Stretch Wool Dress Pants in Blue Plaid Check – $110.60 ($198)

Still much of the same stock, but worth a quick jaunt through if you’re a big Bonobos fan. Some of its final sale, some of it is not. Meanwhile, love the name of that Capstone sportcoat. “Acapulco Green Stripe.” Sounds a cocktail they’d serve at the Catalina Wine Mixer.

Massdrop is now called DROP

• Wolf Windsor Watch Winder – $115 FINAL ($225) 
• Knockaround Sunglasses – $15 FINAL ($25)
• Shoe Shine Kit – $55 FINAL ($80)

Just a heads up here. Massdrop is no longer Massdrop. Massdrop is now DROP. Yes, Drop. So, we’ll refer to them as such moving forward. At the very least, it eliminates the potentially embarrassing typographical error, and thus could mention a sale in the handful by noted website “assdrop“. Which I’m assuming is something totally different, and probably doesn’t do group-purchase discounts. But I ain’t googlin’ that. On an unrelated note, Brandon D. has emailed in and said that the shoe-valet pictured above actually is quite nice. So, many thanks to him for that.

Charles Tyrwhitt: $100 off $350+, $50 off $250+, $25 off $150 w/ FRIENDSHP

• Slim Fit Navy Wool Perfect Blazer – $249 ($299) 
• Slim Fit Light Blue Italian Wool Blazer – $299 ($399) 
• Made in England Cap Toes – $204 ($349)
• Made in England Wingtips in Tan or Black – $204 ($349)

This code is super sneaky. The code is not FRIENDSHIP. There’s no second “i”. It is, in fact FRIENDSHP. Bizarre. Anyway, Charles Tyrwhitt makes a lot more than just shirts. And much of it is very, very nice. That light blue, Italian wool sportcoat? Totally unlined in the back. Yes please.

Macy’s: 25% off Select Watches w/ FRIEND (including Hamilton)

The (spendy) pick: Intramatic  Chronograph – $1646 ($2195) currently unavailable?

For those who prefer to keep their purchases to authorized dealers, instead of the gray market that doesn’t provide factory warranties. Also, Macy’s has (or had?) the brand new Intramatic Chronograph up for that sale. But it might be sold out now? It was getting the 25% off cut for a while there. Featured in this year’s big Spring Temptation round up. Big thanks to Aaron K. for the tip!

BONUS  Banana Republic: Extra 40% off Sale Styles

• Luxury-Touch Piped Polo – $25.79 ($49.50)
• Luxury-Touch Printed Polo – $25.79 ($49.50) 
• Sky Blue Tattersall Slim-Fit or Standard Fit Luxe Poplin Shirt – $37.19 ($69.50) 
• Slim-Fit Chambray Shirt – $42.59 ($79.50) 
• Supima Cotton Button-Shoulder Sweater – $52.79 ($98.50) 
• Organic Cotton Sweater Blazer – $77.99 ($149) 
• Arley Suede Work Boot in Sand – $77.99 ($179.99) 
• Troubadour Slim Briefcase – $222.49 ($495) 
• Herringbone Dot Silk Tie – $23.99 ($59.50)
• Kenley Suede Crepe-Sole Chelsea Boot – $95.99 ($178) 

Not as good as last week when it was an extra HALF off sale styles, but, still worth a mention for those who like to double up on discounts. I know, lots of BR lately. Sorry about that.

Also worth a mention:

• Costco: I still believe this is going on? If you have a Costco membership, they’ve got Ex-Officio boxer briefs, $30 / 3 online, and some stores have them for as low as $19.99 / 3 pack. Huge thanks to M. Shah for the tip. Perineum serenity now! CANT GET THAT AT ASSDROP NOW CAN YA???
• LL Bean: 25% off w/ SAVE25 (offer expires today, 5/2)
• Suitsupply: Their Black Tie Package is back, in time for wedding season. You get the tux, shirt, bow tie, AND shoes, for $799. It’s not cheap, but the savings are tangible. Buy each item separately and it all runs $1042.

J. Crew Shoe Sale, a $1000 tux for $280, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

What I Wear to Work: Chris, Digital Marketing Executive

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

Welcome to “What I Wear to Work.” A series on, you guessed it, who wears what to work. Would you like to be featured? See the bottom of this post for instructions. Chris Ferris is the Vice President of Digital Marketing at Pierpont Communications, the largest PR and Marketing firm in Houston, TX. Even though the standard dress code for most who work in digital seems to be jeans and untucked shirts, Chris tries to wear a jacket or suit and tie to work. Why? Because he likes it, and it also differentiates him from the competition. Doesn’t mean his look has to be straight laced and stuffy though. See below for proof.

The Suit: Lands’ End Tailored Fit Stretch Chino Suit and Pants – $149.37 when 40% off. Just got this suit (thanks for the tip, Dappered!) and I love it. It fits beautifully and I only had to have the sleeves and pants shortened. It’s really an ideal suit to wear in the spring and summer. And it stays so hot it Houston in the fall that I can get a good 6 months of wear out of this suit.

The Tie: The Tie Bar Navy Ad Stripe Tie – $19. Because I wear a tie every day, I have a lot of ties. I shop almost exclusively at The Tie Bar because they have fantastic variety and great prices. And the ties look sharp.

The Tie Bar: The Tie Bar Platinum Silver Shot Tie Bar 1 inch – $15. Wearing a tie? Use a tie bar. Sets my look apart even a little more without being too over the top. I have this bar in matte navy as well.

The Shirt: Nordstrom Trim Fit Microgrid Dress Shirt – $59.90 ($89.50). Elegant, simple white dress shirt with a very subtle pattern that makes it a little more interesting than a plain white dress shirt.

The Watch: Certus Classic Silver Dial Date Watch – $71.25. I don’t see my exact watch online anymore (the one linked to here ships in… 1-3 MONTHS?) but there are similar makes on Amazon. Not too pricey, but looks timeless and goes with just about any work outfit.

The Belt: Trafalgar Men’s Leather Dress Belt – $68. Simple burgundy belt that, like the watch, can really be worn with anything I might wear to work.

The Shoes: Cole Haan Jefferson Wholecut Leather Oxfords – $129.99 ($300). Just got these and they look fantastic (although I’m still breaking them in).

The Underwear: UNIQLO Airism Collection – Prices Vary. I only wear AIRism. Houston can get pretty hot and muggy and this underwear does the job.

The Socks: Banana Republic – $14.50. I usually wear Banana Republic socks but they don’t seem to make tan or caramel colored socks any longer. Match those socks to your trousers, no?

A huge thank you to Chris for sending in his what he wears to work, and YES, you bet he got the Pierpont logo in his outfit pic not once but twice. The man is a pro. Head over to LinkedIn to discuss this with your coworkers or follow Dappered if you want to see these in your feed. If you want to take this for a spin, send an email to joe@dappered.com with who you are, what you do, and what you’d like to submit. To be featured, we’ll need a picture of you at work, as well as the details on what you’re wearing/usually wear on the job. Final image will have to be cropped down to 1500×840 pixels, so, keep that in mind when shooting. Landscape mode please, and let’s keep anything from the chin up out of it. Note that sending an email with your picks and a pic doesn’t guarantee publishing. Be yourself! And get your employer’s permission if you’re gonna get specific with your place of work.

What I Wear to Work: Chris, Digital Marketing Executive published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

Best of Threads: Shoes Being Worn, Mental Health, and Lightweight Pants

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

What’s Dappered Threads? It’s our forum. Launched in 2011, Threads is a not too big, not too small, just-right-sized forum that doesn’t put up with snobbery. All thanks to the users and hardworking mods. Once a month, one of the users/mods from Threads provides us with a highlight package of the last few weeks.

What shoes are you wearing today?

Shoes shoes everywhere and not a pair to wear. That is a saying isn’t it? Well if it is, that saying certainly doesn’t apply to the Dappered forum members. Since the launch of the thread in January, 2019 by Shade, the thread continues to be the go-to for forum members to show off their footwear. mebejoseph kicked the month of April off by working from home in a fun pair of grey and black shoes. cwk posted a photo of his shoes, which prompted lots of appreciation from mebejoseph, DocDave, and Nandyn. Not to be outdone, Dapper_B basked in the glow of member appreciation from Nandyn (again!), jays0n, and DocDave (again!). New forum member, thunder& made his first post count with a photo of his custom hi-tops, Ron showed off his P.F. Flyers, and Banks showed users there is indeed life outside of Allen Edmonds with a pair of Alfred Sargent Moore shoes.

Let’s talk mental health!

Statics from the National Institute for Mental Health state one in five U.S. adults live with a mental illness. DocDave decided to find out how Dappered users feel about their mental health, and what steps forum members are taking to look after themselves. Users shared personal stories and advice on how to keep themselves looking, and feeling, great. JBarwick advocated staying active, getting lots of sleep, and meditation. idvsego chimed in, agreeing that getting a good night sleep is important, watching that inner dialogue, and keeping alcohol consumption to a minimum. armedferret, Ron, LesserBlackDog, and mebejoseph all took time to share what works for them. Kudos to the guys for opening up with their experiences.

Lightweight Pants

Domino’s challenge? Finding lightweight pants. Fortunately for him, forum members live in diverse climates and were able to provide him with a variety of suggestions. Linen/cotton blends seem to be the go-to for the majority of forum members, although pure cotton pants also received endorsements. What did not receive endorsement? Oxford cloth. The analogy from shad0w4life? May as well rub 3,000 grit sandpaper on your skin and call it a day. Ouch! The universal agreement though? Definitely go sockless, regardless of your choice of pants.

What are your lounge-wear essentials?

rd27 decided to find out what forum members wear when dressing down. Recommendations came in from multiple users, with Hebrew Barrister choosing a pair of pajama bottoms and hockeysc23 enjoying his Under Armour storm pants. However by far the most common lounge-wear is the simple athletic short. Multiple forum members reported wearing shorts when the weather called for it, including LesserBlackDog, Deke, mark4, carlitos,  JBarwick and Shade. Perhaps Domino summed it up best when he wrote “I’ll tell you what my loungewear essentials aren’t. Pants. ”

Dappered Weight Loss Club Anyone?

Showing no signs of slowing down since its inception in October of 2018, forum members continue to stay positive on their drive to eat healthy and stay fit. Key tips to loosing weight and keeping it off, at least for JBarwick and Ron, is not bringing salty snacks in to the house. elpenguinologo and hockeysc23 advocated not getting on the scale on a regular basis, while mebejoseph and idvsego are kicking things up a notch in the gym. No word yet if anyone has reached their target goal.

Looking for some advice, direction, or just to connect with some cool guys? Perhaps you are looking to shed a few pounds before summer kicks in too. If so, then Head on over to Threads and take a spin around.

Best of Threads: Shoes Being Worn, Mental Health, and Lightweight Pants published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

14 Problems Only Well-Dressed Men Have

As the old saying goes, “clothes make the man”–but is this always true? While dressing up undoubtedly has numerous benefits, a gentleman who is well versed in proper sartorial practices will also be familiar with a few unique pitfalls and problems. We’ve compiled them here so you’ll be better equipped to overcome them and look your best.

Those who frequent social media have no doubt encountered the concept of #FirstWorldProblems, a hashtag used to describe minor irritations that frustrate people who live otherwise comfortable lives. An example might be having your name misspelled on your Starbucks order or finding Hulu is down when you want to binge-watch a classic TV show. In the same vein, we’ve compiled a list of #GentlemansProblems from top to bottom of a tailored outfit: things that devotees of classic menswear will suffer from that others probably wouldn’t even notice.

1. Collar Gap

Let’s start at the very top of your jacket. Collar gapping describes the way the back collar of your suit jacket or sport coat can pull up and away from your shirt, usually on one side of your neck. The particularly frustrating aspect of it is that the cause is not easily found. It can be experienced with jackets that are quite roomy, and jackets that are very fitted. It has been reported to happen if the collar of a jacket is too large for your neck, but the fact that it mostly shows up on only one side of the neck suggests a different cause, perhaps having one shoulder that is lower or wider than the other.

Leaonardo Di Caprio (Di “Gaprio?”) as Jay Gatsby with a gapping tuxedo collar. If he knew, would he be smiling?

Some men find it happens on every single ready-to-wear jacket they try on, which makes it especially frustrating; in this case, made-to-measure or full bespoke may be the only solutions to address the issue. It may also be possible to cheat the collar gap by having a tailor lower the top button slightly if the gap is on the right side of your neck; this will pull that side of the jacket down a bit more when you close it, pressing the collar closer to your shirt. As an extreme measure with a gapping jacket you don’t want to get rid of, you could even safety-pin your shirt collar to the area under your jacket collar, provided you never take your jacket off during the day and have someone to help you with the pinning.

Before – Sven Raphael Schneider as a young man, before he learned about collar gap

Others have found certain brands in which there is no gapping and stick with these. In the case of the author (Dr. Christopher Lee), a fuller-cut jacket like those made by The Armoury or Ring Jacket seem to avoid gaps while Suitsupply, which is more fitted, does not. A collar that occasionally shows a small gap when you sit or move your arms a certain way may not be noticed by those around you, but once you’re aware of it, it will likely become a deal-breaker for you, and you’ll see it everywhere on others: politicians, the weatherman, actors on TV, and athletes doing NFL commentary. For this reason, it’s definitely a #GentlemansProblem.

2. Shoulder Divots on Jackets

Shoulder divots or dimples tend to show up on flannels more than other fabrics

This one is even less noticeable to the general public, but is similar to the collar gap in being difficult to diagnose. It occurs when you have your arms at your sides (in the “natural resting position”) and can see dimples (or “divots”) just above the biceps on your suit jacket sleeves. These indentations can appear on both sleeves or just one, and seem to be more common or noticeable on flannel rather than lighter summer fabrics.

It happens to the best of us: some apparent dimpling on Andreas Weinås‘ jacket shoulders

Contrary to popular opinion, this issue is not caused by jacket shoulders that are too wide but rather by several possible factors. One is a sleeve pitch or rotation that does not jibe with the way your shoulders sit, and the other is an armhole that is too small for the sleeve. Tailors can make attempts to fix these issues with varying degrees of success, though if you see it on a jacket you are looking to buy, you may want to think twice rather than hoping that alterations will fix the issue. Most casual observers (such as your friends, family, or co-workers) will not notice the problem, but once you are aware of it and see it on a jacket, it’ll drive you crazy.

3. Flyaway Collars

Flyaway collars can be unique or problematic depending on your personal taste

This is something that happens when the collar points of your shirt don’t sit where they should, which is flat against the rest of the shirt and firmly under the collar of a suit jacket or sport coat if you’re wearing one. The flyaway collar, in various forms, happens if the collar points (or just one point) stand away from the shirt when it is fully buttoned and worn with a tie. This will occur if the collar is small and stiff or if it is long and soft, so either extreme of length and stiffness will cause it. Collar stays will do much to solve this problem, but making sure that your collar complements the build of your neck and shoulders is the ultimate key.

4. Second Shirt Button in the Wrong Place

A high second button: appropriate or boring?

The second shirt button is the one you keep buttoned if you open your collar and wear your shirt without a tie. If this button is placed too high on the shirt, you’ll still look “buttoned up” and boring with your collar button open. On the other hand, if it’s too low, you’ll look like Tony Manero in Saturday Night Fever, maybe even with some chest hair showing.

You don’t want your second button to be too low, unless you’re headed to the disco.

One solution is finding a brand that places its second button at the right height. The other option is going custom, in which case you can arrange to put the button wherever you need it to appear relaxed and slightly rakish–neither too conservative nor too playboy. This is something the stylish gent will worry about while the average person will most likely just go with any button location.

5. Pocket Square Sinking or Rising

A pocket square spilling out of a jacket pocket

Most men don’t even wear pocket squares, so the idea that one can sit too low in your jacket pocket or billow out too much is purely a gentleman’s problem. Depending on the size and material your pocket square is made of, it can either sink down too much, so it can’t be seen at all (usually if it’s small–under 12″ square–or heavy), or it balloons up like a souffle and looks silly. The latter happens mainly with satiny silks, which are a combination of airy and slippery.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a pocket square at just the right height

Frankly, with some pocket squares, there is no solution except to jam it back down or pull it back up at various times during the day. Some specific folds and pocket squares of the ideal size for your pocket may help, but it depends on the size of the individual pocket and square, so experiment for yourself. You can try something like a pocket square holder, but usually such gadgets are a waste of time and money.

6. Difficulties with Sleeve Length

The right amount of shirt sleeve exposure

How much shirt cuff should show below the sleeve of your suit jacket is a topic that takes up a lot of space in online menswear forums. The conventional response on proper sleeve length is ¼-½ inch max. This is fine and dandy, until you have a bunch of different jackets with different sleeve lengths along with a variety of different shirts. Some jackets (usually Italian cuts) have shorter sleeves than others. Shirt sleeve length varies off the rack, as well, and if it’s too short to peek out that ¼-1/2″ below your jacket sleeve, you can’t go to a tailor and tell him to make them longer. So, even if you alter jacket sleeves as much as you can to get a decent length, you find some shirts have cuffs that sit at the perfect length for your jackets while others still do not. This means keeping track of which shirts work with which jackets or buying specific shirts at different sleeve lengths.

Suitsupply jackets have notoriously short sleeves

The optimal solution is really to get custom shirts made up with a proper sleeve length to suit your arms, but you may still need some shorter ones for Italian summer jackets if you don’t want to show too much cuff. Many guys will also have one arm slightly longer than the other, or one shoulder lower than the other. This will mean the amount of cuff showing on your shirts will always be uneven unless you 1) again go totally custom made or 2) get a longer sleeve shirt and alter one side differently than the other. All in all, exposing the correct length of cuff is a #GentlemansProblem that’s complicated enough to make you tear your hair out.

7. Getting the Right Tie Length

Ethan Wong wearing a short tie with higher-rise trousers

The question of how long your necktie should be–just touching your waistband is the general rule–occupies the man who is new to dressing well. However, even when you are a pro at it, tie length will continue to be a #GentlemansProblem. For one thing, depending on your height, you may find ties either too long or too short. If you adjust the length of the front blade to satisfy the rule, you might find your back blade either too long (if you are on the short side) or too short (if you are tall). Moreover, if you have pants with a high rise, your standard ties will be too long. One solution is to do a double four-in-hand knot (which is to say, looping around twice rather than once) to effectively shorten the blades. Another is to tuck one or both blades into your waistband, a look some men are not too fond of, though it does remain invisible if you keep your jacket closed.

Tie tucked into waistband

Both of these issues affect even the world’s most well-dressed men, such as Andreas Weinås, who has complained about how his ties often end up with back blades that are too short. Two factors compound the difficulty. One, off-the-rack ties can vary in length from 57″ to 60″ in a standard range, and those three inches can make a world of difference in where the tie ends on your body. The second factor is that bespoke ties are not easily found and can be costly. When they are available, they can come in only more business-like printed silks rather than woven or textured ties. Fortunately, Fort Belvedere offers many of its ties in a range of lengths from short to long to help alleviate the issue.

8. Pleats that Stay Open

Pleated trousers and a shirt with no jacket at Pitti Uomo

It’s likely safe to say that a great many men these days will scorn pleated pants outright, but we’re willing to bet that once you try them in a cut that fits well, you’ll be sold on them as a variant in your wardrobe. The problem encountered by wearers of pleated trousers, though, is when the pleats on the front pull open and stay open while you’re standing. This seems to happen if the pleats are small or sewn too tightly, or if your pants are too tight. The result is that the front of the pants (the rise) doesn’t look as clean as it might. In extreme cases, it can lead to your pants showing some “ballooning.” If you have a jacket on, no one will likely notice it, but once you see it, it will be a source of dissatisfaction. The solution is to try the pants on to make sure the pleats stay closed based on a good fit (though they could also be sewn down). Further, inward-facing pleats will gap less than those that face outward.

9. Not Being Able to Use Your Pockets

It’s difficult to carry anything in your pants pocket without creating a bulge

Back in the day, your author used to carry a large billfold wallet in his front pants pocket. In the other pocket were keys and even a hairbrush. This, of course, should give pause to any gentleman of style. Anything that creates a visible lump in your pockets not only looks vulgar (“Is that a wallet or are you just happy to see me?”) but ruins the clean appearance of the fabric. Today, Dr. Lee only carries a few bills and a loose key or two in his trouser pockets, with a small bifold cardholder in the left inside pocket of a sport coat, where it isn’t visible. Some gents swear by a larger wallet worn in the same inside pocket, but this isn’t just uncomfortable; it also ruins the look of your pocket square if you wear one.

Carry a moderately sized wallet in your inner jacket pocket

Of course, besides your pants, you can’t really use the outside pockets on a suit jacket or sport coat either, especially if they’re patch pockets, because that will eventually lead to unsightly stretching and sagging of the pocket, which cannot be fixed. So, the solution is to keep your “everyday carry” light and use the inside pockets as much as possible. Ironically, though classic menswear tends to have a surplus of pockets, the gent concerned with appearance will often sacrifice utility for style.

10. Keeping Light Pants Clean

Pedro Mendes of The Hogtown Rake wearing light trousers

Frankly, men with little interest in style don’t often wear light-colored pants. Some men may be reluctant to do it, in fact, because they think that telegraphing their attention to clothes is somehow unmasculine. While this is a false assumption, those who make the foray into off-white and white trousers do have to wrestle with the problem of keeping them clean, which is more of an issue with pants than shirts or jackets because they’re close to the ground and you sit on them. Stylish gents wearing light colors will find themselves sweating over sitting on public benches or on the subway—maybe even putting down a magazine or handkerchief to sit on–and they’ll get anxious when eating pasta with sauce or curries. For sure, it requires a great deal of care and attention, which can either be a tremendous pain or a way of slowing down and concentrating on something in an otherwise hectic world. Fortunately, effective stain removal methods do exist, for whenever accidents happen.

11. Keeping Pants at the Right Length

Pants hemmed at the right length can sink during the day

Continuing with clothes worn below the waist, we have the issue of controlling pants length. Whether one wants a break or no break, cuffs or no cuffs, is open to one’s taste, with the prevailing wisdom being that trouser hems should either just touch one’s shoes or show a minimal break. However, both of these choices make one prone to a particular #GentlemansProblem. During the day, your trousers can subside to below the ideal position, even with a belt or side adjusters, creating a larger and more sloppy break over your shoes. This is hard to avoid because when you set your hem length at the tailor, your pants are hiked up to where you want them, not where they will sink later. Many gents who want to keep their trousers looking sharp will simply pull up their pants a few times during the day, but the best solution is wearing suspenders. Because they hold your pants at the right length from your shoulders, they should prevent sinking and maintain a clean leg line. For the true connoisseur of classic style, suspenders are a must.

12. Managing Your Socks

Sock Garters can be uncomfortable for some

The usual advice on dress socks for men is that they should always be over the calf (OTC). The shorter variety popular today that come halfway up your calf will sag or bag, and when you sit, they’ll expose your hairy shins, which is a faux pas. However, wearing OTC socks is easier said than done. In warm weather, they may feel too hot, while if you wear them with flannel pants in the winter they’ll ruin the line of your pants (the inside of your pants legs will cling to them and cause bunching). Sometimes it seems necessary to wear shorter socks, which then create the issue of socks that drop during the day. This is an age-old problem once solved by wearing sock garters, which are considered silly looking today, not to mention being a royal pain. Some nylon content in your socks helps alleviate the problem somewhat but not entirely, so you may be left with pulling up your socks at various times while being careful not to show your bare legs when you sit down. An alternative solution may be shirt stays, if you can warm to the idea of wearing them.

13. Creases on Your Shoe Vamp

Slight wrinkles on the vamp

Like most articles of clothing, dress shoes look their best when they are new and unworn. Once you put them to use, they’ll inevitably develop scuffs, dings, scratches, and gouges, all of which can be camouflaged by polishing except in one place: the vamp, or the top of the shoe directly behind the toe. This is where your foot (and therefore the leather of the shoe) bends when you walk, creating permanent creases in the material. Nothing seems to agitate the shoe-obsessed more. Complaints abound online concerning creased vamps, and people desperately seek advice on how to prevent it from happening. Once creases occur, they can’t really be removed and polishing this area is impossible because the wax will cloud and crack as the leather continues to flex. So, what do you do?

Vintage and beautiful double monk shoes in brown

First, buy good quality shoes. Thinner, cheaper leather will crease more and look worse. Next, use shoe trees when you store your shoes after wearing them. These will help minimize creasing by holding your shoes in their original unflexed position. Lastly, live with the creases. Of your entire wardrobe, shoes may be the most hard-working and subject to use. Some creasing is natural and only adds to the lived-in beauty of a quality pair of shoes.

14. Asymmetrical Shoelaces

This may be the most overlooked and finicky of #GentlemensProblems, but once you know about it, you may never be able to unsee it. When you tie your shoelaces, you probably loop the left lace over the right when you make a bow. The end result is that the finished bow will be twisted slightly on a diagonal. It won’t lie straight across or perpendicular to the shoe. No one will notice or care—except you! Fortunately, Sven Raphael Schneider explains how to tie your shoes to get a perfectly straight bow, which involves reversing the loop direction. It’ll be difficult for righties to make this feel natural at first, but it’s a nice finishing touch, even if only you know that you’ve done it. As a bonus, mastering this technique will also mean that your shoes should stay tied longer.

Conclusion

To be honest, all #GentlemansProblems are the result of seeking perfection, the desire to look not only one’s best but to be flawless in dress. This idea is fed by images on social media or the larger internet, which are professionally photographed or curated to present a highly refined look. They may present products that are just out of the box with no wear on them, shot under controlled circumstances before having filters applied to them. In reality, such perfection is nearly impossible to maintain. Still, many of us feel we need to look Instagram-ready even “in the wild,” which risks removing all the fun in dressing up. Therefore, especially since most of the people around us will not notice, we should lighten up on issues of dress that only we can see. We can be committed to looking good without agonizing over fastidious concerns.

Which #GentlemansProblems bother you, and how do you react to these issues? Are there any others we’ve missed? Share your views in the comments.

14 Problems Only Well-Dressed Men Have published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

Selvedge Denim: Is It Worth The Extra Money?

from He Spoke Style – Men’s Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Is selvedge denim worth it?

Introduced by Levi’s in 1853, denim has long been a significant part of history in menswear. A blue-collar staple that continues to grow, it’s estimated that every year around 450 million pairs of jeans are sold in the US. With so much of today’s denim being mass produced, the focus has shifted from the belief of quality and longevity to one of excess quantity and trend driven, fast-fashion.

The majority of denim today has a completely different look and feel than it once did. More brands than ever (yes, even Levi’s) are introducing synthetic materials for more stretch and laser-etched distressing to look like they are more well-worn pair.

Fortunately for us, the few vestiges of what denim’s greatness used to be still exists in the marketplace. When it comes to the trio of quality, longevity and price, the answer has always pointed to selvedge denim.

What is selvedge denim? Mentioned previously, selvedge denim is often referred to as being a superior quality denim fabric with a distinct “self edge” stripe down each side of the textile’s roll. Due to the limited availability of the looms needed to produce the denim fabric, as well as a smaller amount of material being manufactured, it is increasingly getting harder to find brands that still make denim in a selvedge style.

The few who do charge more for the time and effort that goes into the final product. Undoubtedly the question that everyone always asks: Is selvedge denim worth the extra money?

Yes, and here’s why

100% Cotton – Let’s face it, todays denim is just different. IMHO the stretch aspect in the current denim doesn’t feel the same. Selvedge denim feels like denim used to feel. Tough, bullet proof, and long-lasting.

You Invest in Quality – Typically a higher quality product means it will last longer. If you can buy one pair of denim instead of multiple pairs, why wouldn’t you spend a little more?

Jeans are Personal – Denim is inherently something that is personal. The fit, the feel, the way we use/wear them in. Each pair wears intrinsically different. With selvedge denim, you get to see the evolution of your pair as you wear them. New denim just doesn’t wear the same as a raw pair of selvedge denim.

Flaunt Your Sartorial Knowledge – For those of us who are denim enthusiasts, showing off that “self edge” regularly is a little badge of honor. It’s the kind of inconsequential thing that no one else will notice or care about, but you’re proud it’s there.

Great Denim is Versatile – While not everyone believes in wearing a pair with a sportcoat, denim is unequivocally versatile. A dark pair will work with almost anything in your wardrobe and can even take you through all four-seasons (yup, even summer).

Whether you need convincing or not, buying selvedge denim is an investment. For those who want the best, selvedge denim offers all the hallmarks of quality similar to that of a well-made suit. Personal preferences aside, I’ve owned several pairs of them over the years. I’ve found that spending a little more has always proved to be the wise decision.

Agree? Let me know if you think selvedge denim is worth it.

Stylishly Yours,

Steven D. Elliott
He Spoke Style

The post Selvedge Denim: Is It Worth The Extra Money? first appeared on the men’s style blog He Spoke Style – Men’s Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Selvedge Denim: Is It Worth The Extra Money? published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

In Review: Target Goodfellow & Co Slim Fit Men’s Tech Chinos

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

Target Slim Fit Tech Chinos: Goodfellow & Co. – $29.99

About the Author: Stephen Knight is a photographer / videographer who founded itsaknightsstyleand Itsaknightslife. His mission is to tell the story of people through style, food, music, and dancing. Catch his stuff on Instagram and Youtube.

I remember a time where you wouldn’t look at big box stores for anything resembling stylish, good looking clothes. But with an increased focus on the fashion industry by the likes of Amazon and Target, the fashion giants should probably start to take notice.

Size 30×32 on 5’10” / 165 – 170, shown here in “Nighttime Blue”

The Look

At first glance, these look like standard chinos. But look a little closer, and you can find some interesting details about these. The first thing I noticed out of the box was that the bottom of the pants were rolled up. Yes, they rolled the pants and then shipped them. That gave them a more casual vibe. On their site they state that it’s meant to be dressed up AND down, but in my case, I would only probably use these in a dressed down state. Something that struck me as odd (and still does) are the drawstrings inside. So it’s a chino with a standard button and zip fly, AND a drawstring? Beats me. It reminds me of sweats but in chino form. It’s something I can get past, but, something I noticed as well. Standard chino pocket layout, but there’s also a hidden zipper by the right pocket.

The hidden zipper behind the main right pocket.

Something I noticed is the buttons are black, and with blue and navy pants, I would prefer brown or walnut, but that’s just me. The colors looked true to the website, and had a “deeper hue to them” which means they will do a better job at blending with both professional and casual environments. You can pair these with anything you want, from a v-neck t-shirt all the way to buttoned downs (within reason). Making these pretty versatile for the wardrobe.

Four colors to pick from. 52% cotton, 44% nylon, and 4% spandex.

The Feel

Being a mix of 52% cotton, 44% nylon, and 4% spandex, these definitely have a “tech” feel to them. They almost remind me of golf pants if I was being 100% honest. Some people like this because it wicks away moisture and keeps them cool, but my personal taste with my pants is to have a leaning towards softness. And I don’t think these are as soft as a standard chino. The good thing about the fabric mix is that these pants will move with you throughout different activities. So if you have a more active commute to work or out in the city, these will easily move with you there. Because these also wick moisture and dry quickly, you also don’t have to look like you have an active commute. That’s where the trade off of softness for functions really show their worth.

Color shown here is “late night green.”

The Fit

I’m going to preface this saying that I am 5’10 170 lbs and I work out here and there (Although Joe called me skinny…) Editor’s note: I did? I think we can all agree Stephen isn’t skinny. His musculature is obvious. Maybe my lard-ass is just jealous of his leanness. Also, I am not a lard-ass. Self deprecating? Sure. That I am. Welcome to Costco Stephen, I love you! These are marketed as slim fit, which I would say is kind of true. Sitting just below the waist. they are slimmer than a straight fit, but they aren’t a true slim… I would rate these in the “athletic” fit range. Plenty of room through the thighs and the leg openings, so you should have no issues having room in these. Because these stretch, I would personally take these to get tailored to hug the body more. Because these are $30, simply add the tailoring price to these and reasonably (depending on your tailor) you should walk away with perfectly fitted, nice and flexible/stretchy chinos.

52% cotton, 44% nylon, and 4% spandex isn’t the softest, but it does stretch and breathe.

Final Thoughts

At $30 dollars (plus presumable tailoring costs), these are a decent value that can be added to any rotation in your wardrobe. Personally I would lean towards a softer fitting chino for what I do. But if you are a commuter or someone who wants to be able to wear one pant throughout the day without worrying about staying cool or dry, these should be worth a look to add to your collection.

In Review: Target Goodfellow & Co Slim Fit Men’s Tech Chinos published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki)

PS Shorts back in stock (with new khaki) published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

Banana Republic: 40% off almost no BR Merch Exclusions (plus new warm weather arrivals)

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

Banana Republic: 40% off almost no BR Merch exclusions (exp 5/1)

Good news: BR has expanded their Core Temp Line! Huge fan of their core temp chinos. And it looks like… Jared Goff is the new Kevin Love for BR? And they’re using him to promote the Core Temp line? Remember his “big game” against the Patriots? Right. Now he’s the new face of their “cool under pressure” fabric. Bit of dissonance there, at present. But he’s young.

Anyway, Core Temp and a lot of the other new arrivals have been excluded as of late, but not through tomorrow, May 1st. No code needed. 40% off happens in your cart. Only exclusions are Monogram, leather apparel, suede apparel, 100% cashmere, 100% silk, and third party. Off we go with some picks.

Core Temp Chinos – $58.80 ($98)

New colors! Just in time for the heat too. Really, really… (wait for it) really good. Lightweight, breathable, and absurdly comfortable. Full review here. Lordy please make em’ in an athletic tapered.

Core Temp BLAZER – $149.40 ($249)

Whut. They made a just quarter-lined sportcoat out of their core temp fabric? Well that’s… that’s something else. Four colors to pick from. Pick a matching pant and you’ve got a core temp suit for under $210. Not bad at all. Also available in taupe and black, as well as the navy and stone shown above.

D-Ring Suede Belts – $29.70 ($49.50)

Suede accessories often get excluded, but not this time. Perfect for the warm weather ahead, and can also be worked into cooler weather outfits for a bit of color and texture.

Core Temp 9″ Slim Short – $41.70 ($69.50)

Perfect for the guy who wants the breathability and stretch of a tech short, but hates the snow-pant like “swish swish” sound that fully synthetic shorts (and pants) seem to make when you walk. 9″ length is neither too long nor is it shorty-shorts-short. Nine colors to pick from.

Rapid Movement Jeans – $70.80 – $77.40 ($118 – $129)

Obligatory mention because they’re often excluded. Full review can be found here. Plenty of fits and washes to pick from. Size shown above is a 34×30 tapered fit in rinse. Enormous fan of these. Full outfit suggestions can be found here.

Silk-Linen Crew-Neck Sweater – $41.70 ($69.50)

You don’t need a lot of sweaters in spring/summer, but most of us will want more than zero sweaters on hand in the spring/summer. And a silk linen option like one of these is perfect. Strength of silk with the airiness and texture of linen, all woven into one.

Silk-Linen Stripe Sweater – $47.70 ($79.50)

Now, with stripes. But you’ll have to pay a couple bucks more. Still 55% silk, 45% linen. Excellent to have on hand for summer nights.

Regular or SLIM Fit Luxe Touch – $26.70 – $29.70 ($44.50 – $49.50)

Exceptional with one big exception. Many have reported shrinkage problems with these. Especially when it comes to the length. So much so that some suggest ordering a “tall” size even if you’re not. I don’t have this issue, and I can’t tell you why. I wash on warm or cold and dry on medium or cool. Do they shrink up a little in the wash? Maybe. But not to the extremes that I’ve heard. That said, if you struggle sometimes in the laundry department, you might want to heed those warnings. Anyway, it’s the fabric that sets these apart. They’re all cotton, yet somehow manage to be super smooth, stretchy, and soft. Like there’s almost some silk in there. Plenty of colors and patterns to pick from. Style seen above is this year’s retro, tipped model. Size shown above is a Large Slim.

Italian Leather Cap-Toe Oxford – $94.80 ($158)

Cheeaaaaaaaaaaaaaap. You could do a LOT worse at this under $100 price point. A lot worse. Conservative shape. Simple cap toe. Ortholite insole is pretty comfy out of the box. Fit seems true. Maybe a half size small if you don’t wear thin dress socks with them. Are they gonna last you your whole life? Nah. Will they look good with a navy suit for an interview? You bet.

Stretch Woven Belt – $32.70 ($54.50)

Holy moly so many options here. Stretch but with a leather & standard buckle front.

Stretch-Linen Polo – $35.70 ($59.50)

97% flax linen and 3% spandex. Johnny-collar here, so no buttons.

Nicklas Sneaker – $76.80 ($128)

Another new classic from BR. Can a new classic be inspired by the success of the J. Crew Nike Killshot? I don’t see why not. White leather uppers? Check. Gum sole? Check. Blue accents? Check. Full review here.

Slim Stripe Blazer – $118.80 ($198)

84% cotton, 14% modal, 2% spandex. Lots of potential here. Wear with jeans now and lightweight chinos or linen pants later on. Cotton/Modal/Spandex blend. Just half lined in the back. Could be a real winner.

Dellbrook Suede Loafer – $88.80 ($148)

Remember the Kentucky Derby Day style scenario from a few hours ago? Right, if you don’t want to risk the cheap, faux-suede shoes from Target, these should be a fine alternative. Still reasonably priced.

Chambray Camp Shirt – $38.70 ($64.50)

IF you’re gonna jump on the camp shirt bandwagon (and that’s a big if), try to keep the print at least somewhat subtle and muted. This option from Banana Republic accomplishes that. Yet it still looks like something reserved for mornings when you’re absurdly hungover, and/or, attempting to facilitate a deal to smuggle dinosaur embryos off a remote island.

SUPIMA Cotton Sweater Blazer – $89.40 ($149)

Fellas, I know some of you hate the swazer. But still. Some of us love them.

Gray Suede Chelseas – $106.80 ($178)

Lotsa Dappered stereotypes here. Now, that said, I’m not a big crepe sole guy. Seems to limit the shoe to almost all casual use. And that said, these look pretty darn sharp.

Core Temp Ahtletic Tapered DRAWSTRING Pant – $58.80 ($98)

SO CLOSE. Damn. Elastic waistband here. That’s a no go for many of us. But at least they’re in an athletic tapered fit. Three colors to pick from.

Arley Suede Work Boot – $77.99 – $106.80 ($178)

Nice enough that they even impressed our resident fancy-shoe (think Aldens and above) expert. Full review here. Two colors of suede to pick from, with the lighter colored option already being on sale.

Slim Smart-Weight Performance Suit Jacket & Athletic Pant – $320.60 ($458)

It’s a wool/poly blend (just about 50/50) that’s been engineered to be lightweight, breathable, and durable. Also, the use of an athletic pant is helpful for those of us on team leg day.

Slim Traveler Pant – $59.10 ($98.50)

Favorite pants that are usually excluded. 4.8/5 stars after over 1400 reviews. They’re a jean style chino made with some sort of high-recovery Italian stretch cotton. So, comfort of your favorite pair of jeans, only in chino like colors & finish. Lots of colors to pick from. Also offered in Athletic Tapered and Skinny. Full review here. Want the new, fly-weight version for the summer? Those would be right here.

Nyle Italian Lace-Up Oxford – $94.80 ($158)

Springy. Summery even. A nice, cooler-in-color-temp alternative to standard beige or off white bucks. But they have those too, in tan, if that’s more your thing.

Slim Utility Blazer in Olive, Navy, or Stone – $95.40 ($159)

All cotton. Not a traditionally styled sportcoat, but more of that chore-jacket look that’s supposed to not be quite as sharp and crisp looking. To be worn with henleys and t-shirts and untucked OCBDs and chambray shirts. Stone option, for whatever reason, is on a separate page.

Super Soft Crew-Neck Sweater – $41.70 ($69.50)

A bold pair of stripes across the chest, with a 55% cotton, 30% recycled polyester, 15% nylon blend making up the super soft fabric.

Water-Resistant Trench Coat in Khaki or Navy – $161.40 ($269)

Banana Republic does a lot of things well. One of those things is outerwear. And just about every year, they release their version of the classic trench coat. All the details you’d expect, and a mid-thigh length that thankfully avoids that “flasher” look super long trench coats can carry with them. Fabric makeup should keep you dry: 66% polyester/nylon blend, 22% polyester, 12% cotton.

Performance Stretch Wool Dress Pant in Slim or Athletic Tapered – $70.80 ($118)

BR’s stand alone wool dress pant. 99% wool and 1% elastane. Two fits to pick from. Sizes shown above appear to be a 24×40. I don’t know why they look so long and lean online like that.

Hadley Italian Leather Brogue Oxford – $94.80 ($158)

Affordable brogue bluchers. So… certainly leaning more smart casual than dressed up. But at a laid back summer wedding? Or a derby party? They’d look great with a cool gray linen suit.

Slim Chambray Blazer – $118.80 ($198)

A new, springtime arrival that can probably see some use now as long as you’re layered up. All cotton chambray. Just half lined in the back. Center vent in the rear.

Slim Dark Rinse Japanese Traveler Jean – $71.40 ($119)

In case it’s still jeans weather where you live. The legend. After over one THOUSAND reviews on the BR site, these things still have a 4.6 out of 5 star rating. Full review here.

Thane Leather Trainer Sneaker – $88.80 ($148)

Thane? As in, the Thane of Cawdor? Oh full of scorpions is my mind dear wife. 

This 40% off almost no BR merch exclusions deal expires tomorrow, 5/1/19.

Banana Republic: 40% off almost no BR Merch Exclusions (plus new warm weather arrivals) published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart

Style Scenario: Kentucky Derby Party

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

What are you going to wear? Sometimes it’s good to look at a few suggestions then add your own tweaks and ideas. That’s what these are for. The Derby is coming up, and it’s as good a reason as any to get together with friends and knock back a mint julep or some bourbon over ice. The guys get dressed up, the gals wear dresses and big hats, and it can end up being a complete blast. Here’s how to look the part while still having a few bucks left over to go to the window with (even if the “window” is a hat placed on a chair in the living room of the host’s house).

The Suit: J. Crew Factory Slim Seersucker Blazer ($84) + Matching Pant ($39 w/ TOOGOOD) = $123. You’re getting an entire summer suit for under $125? That’s pretty flippin’ good. And while blue and white stripe seersucker is more traditional… it can also look costume-y. Not so here. A nice, deep blue, but you still have that cooling seersucker pucker. Appears to have minimal lining too.

The Pocket Square: TheTieBar “Bouquet Toss” in Stone – $10. Bold and fun, but the muted tones keep it outta clown territory.

The Shirt: Amazon Buttoned Down Brand Tailored Fit Solid Pinpoint – $35. Or, whatever your favorite and best fitting white dress shirt happens to be. Button down collar absolutely works here. It’s a southern event, and the south is more conservative. So, button down collar is just fine. Plus, it’ll keep your points in line as the bourbon flows on.

The Sunglasses: Banana Republic Ervine Sunglasses – $78. Often on sale but not always on sale. A bit of retro but still contemporary.

The Belt: Braided Canvas Woven Elastic Stretch Belts – $10.99. Eleven bucks on Amazon and well reviewed. Plus, since the shoes are suede-ish, you don’t have to worry about matching your shoes and belt.

The Shoes: Goodfellow & Co Kayden Loafers – $34.99. Faux suede here, so, these could be not great. But faux-suede has come a LONG way in the last few years. Fingers crossed that they’re not terrible? And, I mean, for $35, the threshold of expectation has to be reasonably low, no? Nice shape to em’. Perfect color to wear with the suit on a warm spring day too.

The No-Shows: Smartwool No-Shows – $13.95. A favorite. Far superior to cotton or cotton blends when it comes to no-show socks.

The Watch: Orient Bambino 2nd Gen Version II – $115. All class, and the retro good looks fit in perfectly with the fact that you’ll be watching a horse race.

The Reminder: Bring cash! Singles preferably. Here’s how to set up an easy functioning, self-serve betting “window” at a derby party. Take a piece of poster board or a white board, and make a row for each horse. Here’s an example using the 1973 Derby. Guests write their own name in the horse’s row they pick to win. They can pick multiple horses, and write their name multiple times if they want to increase their stake in the horse(s). Every time they write their name they pay a dollar into the pot. Each “name” in the winning horse’s row gets a share of the entire pot. Dress your board up with odds/jockeys etc.

The 2019 Kentucky Derby is Saturday, May 4th. Top Photo: J. Poe

Style Scenario: Kentucky Derby Party published first on https://medium.com/@sogomart